By Patrick Griffin.
THE rather utilitarian looking footbridge across the River Danube in the Bavarian city of Regensburg is a magnet for local lovers.
At first sight, and even upon closer inspection, this rather ugly structure is hardly the city’s most obvious location for romance.
It is constructed of horizontal sturdy green metal girders, held together with industrial bolts and exposed metal cross beams.
Sturdy and safe though it is, it looks like something the military might knock up in a hurry just to get the job done.
Romantic crossing...lovers come here to declare their undying love for each other. Pic: © 2010 P. Griffin/www.PGTravelTips.com
To stop people falling into the waters below a fence, made of closely-spaced vertical metal bars and wider spaced horizontal bars spans each side of the bridge…and it is this three foot metal fence which attracts the lovers.
Its attraction? The thousands of metal segments make ideal attachments for small padlocks of course! Perhaps I should explain.
Lovers inscribe their names on the metal locks, sometimes with a personal message but sometimes not, and then attach the padlock to the bridge while declaring their undying love for each over.
Then they kiss and throw the key of the padlock into the Danube’s waters below and the romantic gesture is well and truly sealed.
Lock of love...close up of some of the lovers locks left on the bridge rails. Pic: © 2010 P. Griffin/www.PGTravelTips.com
The tradition – now popular throughout Europe but especially so in Germany – is believed to have originated in Russia where newlyweds would tie cotton ribbons to bridges to mark their new lives together.
Regensburg covers 31 square miles (80 sq km), has a population of 150,000, dates back to the Stone Age and the oldest city on the Danube. (its medieval Old Town is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.)
It is one of the few German cities which escaped major bombing campaigns during World War II and locals are immensely proud of its long history and ancient buildings.
It is just 90 minutes from Munich by train, and has a very efficient local bus network and is served by two major motorway networks.
Regensburg is also a highly regarded university town and serves a student population of around 23,000 which include many international students from throughout Europe and further afield.
Regensburg...Historic Bavarian town. Pic: © 2010 P. Griffin/www.PGTravelTips.com
It is also a city of many churches – take a visit to the old centre and everywhere you turn there seems to be another church.
Perhaps the most imposing – from the outside at least – is St Peter’s Cathedral which is regarded as the city’s spiritual centre.
According to a local tourist information handout: “When you look up towards the spires of this imposing Gothic building, you will see kings on horseback, foolish virgins, and gargoyles with animal and human faces.”
I think I missed the foolish virgins (just what, exactly, does a virgin have to do to be considered foolish in Regensburg and can she still be described as a virgin afterwards?) but I noticed many kings on horseback and human faces attached to various animals.
Now as impressive as the cathedral is – and it is impressive – I actually preferred the rather less imposing collegiate church of “Our Dear Lady of the Old Chapel” which dates from Roman times.
There are three quick facts I wish to share with you about this particular church:
- Its organ was blessed by Pope Benedict XVI during his 2006 visit to Regensburg, making it the only organ which has ever been blessed by the Pope in person.
- From the outside this church is rather plain, and utterly unimposing. One may easily walk past it and not give it a second thought but this would be a huge mistake because…
- The inside is truly breath-taking. In fact once I got inside and marvelled at the sight before me I had to step back out again to ensure I was actually in the same building.
Easily overlooked...Our Dear Lady of the Old Chapel. Pic © 2010. P.Griffin/www.PGTravelTips.co.uk
An information leaflet on the church attempts to explain the sight confronting those who step through the doors.
It says: “[Upon] entering the church you are confronted with the lavish abundance of the rococo.
“You are surrounded by the 18th Century. In this period kings build palaces and banqueting halls sparkling with gold, silver and mirrors.
“For God only the best is good enough.”
Lavish abundance indeed! Just look at the pictures below and you can see for yourself.
The detail is just absolutely stunning, the colours are almost alive and the overall effect is almost overpowering.
In fact the interior of this church might just be a little bit too elaborate. After all how tempting must it be for the faithful to lose their imaginations to the lavish artwork on the ceiling and the walls when they should be following the church service or paying attention to the sermon?
But as it could be considered to be ‘reflecting on the glory of God’ then perhaps no harm would be done after all.
Stunning interior...Ornate artwork designed for the glory of God. Pic: © 2010. P.Griffin/www.PGTravelTips.co.uk
From 1663 to 1806 Regensburg was the permanent seat of the Reichstag of the Holy Roman Empire and one of its most famous sights, the stone bridge, built between 1135–1146, is a highlight of medieval bridge construction. The knights of the 2nd and 3rd crusade used it to cross the Danube on their way to the Holy Land.
Today the Danube in Regensburg is home to many tourist river tours and is a popular stop for a number of different river cruise companies.
Looking pretty in the early evening light...houses by the side of the Danube. Pic: © 2010 P. Griffin/www.PGTravelTips.com
Once one of the key towns in the Roman Empire and today Germans are proud of its long history. Pic: © 2010. P.Griffin/www.PGTravelTips.co.uk
PG.
